Before you purchase a single hive component, before you order your bees, before you do anything else, you must answer one crucial question: where will the hive live?
The site you choose will determine whether your bees thrive or struggle, whether your neighbors become allies or adversaries, whether you enjoy beekeeping or come to dread the weekly trudge to an inconveniently placed hive.
Choose well, and everything else becomes easier. Choose poorly, and you will fight an uphill battle all season.
So let us begin at the beginning: the legal question.
It does not matter how perfect your backyard seems if keeping bees there is illegal. And in some jurisdictions, it is.
Check three things:
Municipal ordinances. Some cities ban beekeeping outright. Others allow it but regulate hive placement (must be 50 feet from property lines), hive numbers (maximum two hives per residential lot), or require permits. Google "[your city] beekeeping ordinance" or call city hall.
Homeowners' association rules. If you live in an HOA community, check the bylaws. HOAs have been known to prohibit beekeeping alongside prohibitions on clotheslines and unapproved mailbox colors. Ask forgiveness later does not work when your neighbors can fine you.
State regulations. Some states require hive registration. Others mandate inspections. A few impose restrictions based on proximity to schools or public areas. Your state's Department of Agriculture (or equivalent) will have details.
Join a local beekeeping club. They will know the rules and can guide you through any permitting process.
Bees need sun. But not too much sun.
The ideal site receives morning sun — this warms the hive early, encouraging the bees to start foraging at first light. But by afternoon, especially in hot climates, some shade is desirable. A hive in full sun all day can overheat, forcing the bees to spend energy cooling it (they fan their wings, evaporating water to lower the temperature). This is wasted effort.
Dappled shade from a deciduous tree works beautifully. In winter, when the tree is bare, the hive gets full sun and stays warm. In summer, the leaves provide afternoon relief.
Dense, all-day shade is problematic. The hive stays cool in summer (good) but also cool in spring and fall (bad). A cold hive in April means the queen slows her laying. The colony builds more slowly. It may not be strong enough to survive the following winter.
If you must choose between too much sun and too much shade, choose sun. You can always add shade (a tarp, an awning, a strategically planted tree). Adding sun is harder.
Bees are small. Worker bees weigh one-tenth of a gram. A stiff wind can ground them, preventing foraging and costing the colony food.
Choose a site sheltered from prevailing winds. A fence, a hedge, or a building on the windward side works well. If your site is exposed, consider erecting a windbreak — a line of shrubs or a simple wooden fence. It need not be tall. Four feet is often enough.
Also avoid low-lying areas where cold air pools on frosty mornings. These frost pockets can be several degrees colder than surrounding areas, which stresses the bees.
And drainage — ensure the site does not collect standing water. A soggy hive stand invites rot and pests. The ground should slope gently away from the hive.
You will visit this hive regularly — inspections every seven to ten days during the active season, plus feeding, maintenance, and harvesting. If the hive is a quarter-mile hike from your house, through brambles and mud, you will skip inspections. Guaranteed.
Choose a site you can reach easily, year-round, carrying a toolbox and (eventually) boxes of honey. Proximity to a path or driveway is ideal.
Also consider working height. If the ground slopes, position the hive so you are standing on the downhill side during inspections. This raises the hive relative to your body, saving your back.
A hive on a slope tends to build comb at an angle. This makes inspections difficult (frames stick) and can confuse the bees (they prefer vertical comb).
Level the site before installing the hive. Use a hive stand to compensate for minor slopes. Shim one side if necessary.
A level hive is a happy hive.
Elevate the hive off the ground — at least six inches, ideally more. This has several benefits:
A simple hive stand — two cinder blocks and a pressure-treated board — costs under $20 and makes a world of difference.
Where you place the hive affects whether your neighbors notice the bees. We will cover this in depth in Chapter 33, but the short version: position hives so the flight path does not cross walkways, patios, or pools. A fence or hedge that forces bees to fly up and over before they disperse is invaluable.
Also consider whether the hive is visible. Out of sight is often out of mind.
A good site is:
No site will be perfect. But if you can check most of these boxes, your bees will do well.
"The best hive in the wrong location will struggle. A mediocre hive in the right location will thrive. Choose the site before you choose anything else."
— The Beekeeper's Almanac